Yet another Bishop trip has come to an end. It never seems
to get old. Every trip is unique and I always leave with new experiences and memories. After
receiving news of being added to the Giddy Organics Giddy-Squad and a clothing
sponsorship with Olmec Apparel, I was consumed by capturing aesthetically
pleasing photos instead of producing high numbers throughout the trip. Just as
quick as my feet hit the buttermilk gravel, I forgot about photos and wanted
to produce. Although I’ve spent countless weekends climbing in Bishop, I’ve
never been to Dales Camp. Since the temperatures have drastically risen in the
last few weeks, the snow has since melted. I was eager to get on problems I had
never tried. My brother Charlie, friend
Matt, Sofia, and I headed over to Dales in search for new challenges. Day one
had begun.
Jacob Padilla at the last bump move on Xavier's Roof, v11
Charles Padilla cutting feet on Judge Not, v9
Matt Haig working on Zen Flute, v10
The first stop was Xavier's Roof, such an amazing line with
great movement. After some rather straightforward roof climbing, passing the
lip is done with great difficulty and flexibility. A must try if you find
yourself in Dales Camp. Before heading back to town for food, we headed over to
Zen Flute, Sharma Flake, Judge Not, and Solitaire. Each climb was unique and
presented different challenges. Some challenges were overcome. Some were not.
However, aside from the painful sand wielding windstorm, our first day went
considerably well. Although we only managed to finish a few of the climbs, it
was a great experience and I will definitely be visiting the area again. As day
one came to an end, I was excited to see what else the weekend would have to
offer. After a good nights rest, we enthusiastically marched up the hill ready
to climb. After running a few laps on the Robinson Rubber Tester, we headed
over the Cave Boulder to give a few burns on The Buttermilker. Such a stout,
physical, and challenging climb. My anti-style, unfortunately it did not go
down. Hopefully next trip.
Sofia Hoang toeing in on Robinson Rubber Tester
Chris Llewellyn working on Buttermilker Sit, V13
Al Ho on the send of Bubba Gump, v10
As day three commenced, I wanted to check out the Crabs
Boulder since I had never climbed on it. Upon my arrival, I was excited to
climb the steep overhang. However, I quickly realized why I had never heard of
any good lines on the boulder, CHOSS. I attempted to warm up on Breakaway, v6.
After chalking up, I began climbing with confidence. Unfortunately, when I locked
off the top mini-jugs to gain the lip, they broke away and I fell flat on my
back. The Bishop guidebook reads: "…try to leave something behind for
others to climb on." Sorry "others", this climb may be a bit
harder to top without the last holds. My apologies…. After being discouraged
and disappointed with the quality of rock, we packed up and headed over to the
Womb and Mandala Boulder to climb A Birthing Experience (if that's climbing)
and Pope's Prow.
Jacob Padilla on Breakaway, just before the top jugs broke away. Best spotter ever!
Jacob Padilla on Pope's Pow, v6
Before our departure from Bishop, Charlie convinced me that
we should put some last minute effort into The Mystery, v12. I was skeptical at
first since we had never tried it. After arriving at the Grandma Peabody
Boulder, I was growing increasingly excited to try the climb. After sussing out
each individual move and watching a couple of videos, we began our initial
attempts. Fortunately, we were both able to put the moves together and send the
problem back to back in just a few attempts. Sending the problem alongside my
twin brother was an amazing feeling indescribable by words. After watching him
climb, I was extremely motivated to push myself to follow along in his footsteps.
Not only did he set the bar high, he lit a fire beneath me and I felt like I
could not let him down. Regardless of the grade, the best part of the
experience was being able to share it with someone else. Often times as
climbers, our sends are for ourselves. It reminded be how amazing climbing is
when it can be shared with others, especially loved ones. If your loved ones don’t
climb, introduce them to this amazing sport. If they do climb, enjoy your experiences
together and continue creating memories that you can look back on. I’ll never
forget the day in the Buttermilks my brother and I climbed together.
Charles Padilla on the send of The Mystery, v12
Photos courtesy of:
Jacob Padilla
Instagram - Jacob Padilla
Email - padillajkub@gmail.com
Please note that I am not a writer, photographer, or professional climber. I’m the average climber with an opinion, like you. All feedback, questions, and comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.
-Jacob Padilla
