Northern California Affairs

After a slight finger injury, I've been hesitant to commit my weekends to sitting in the car with the risk of further injuring myself. I'm in a constant mental limbo. Trying to decide whether I should take a break from climbing, I can't do it. I HAVE to climb. I’ve spent most recent weekends climbing locally trying to take it easy. Staying close to home the past few weekends has been quite the rewarding and humbling experience. My injuries have improved and I’ve gotten the opportunity to climb in areas I’ve been neglecting.  

First stop, Yosemite Valley. Pulling into the park, I couldn’t believe it had been over a year since I took the time to climb in such a wonderful place. Yosemite reminds me how grateful I am to live in Northern California. It's hard to believe how many people don't visit Yosemite. Before I unearthed my love and passion for Bishop, I frequently climbed in the valley. Since I had been absent over the last year, I thought it would be most appropriate to spend the day climbing classics in the over populated, and over climbed Camp 4. Unfortunately, the sun was out and heat was radiating off the valley floor. Not the most ideal weather for climbing. Enjoyable nonetheless.

The mysterious YNP Ranger armed with a smile and clipboard.

 Getting tunnel vision heading toward the valley floor.

 Sophia Lampi reaching at full extension on The Force, v9

Jacob Padilla on the classic Bruce Lee, v8

The following weekend was spent close to home climbing the never-ending eliminates of Mortar Rock and relaxing with friends. For me, climbing at Mortar Rock is most often extremely humbling. The sharp unforgiving rock and strong movement equates to very stout lines. Like Yosemite, temperatures were not ideal for climbing. 

Perhaps the best part about Mortar Rock and the neighboring Indian Rock is the atmosphere. Both areas are highly populated with local climbers as well as families enjoying the view of the Bay Area. Climbing with friends and strangers is the best part of climbing. This "mini crag" is always buzzing with new climbers who are looking to share their experiences and learn from others. 

 Tabitha Enanoria pausing for a smile on Nat's Traverse, v8

 Charles Padilla eyeing the gaston on Don't Worry Be Snappy, v12

Charles Padilla on the opening move of The Odyssey  Sit, v12

Jacob Padilla sending New Wave, v9/10

Lastly, my brother and I made the quick commute to Castle Rock. Due to skin loss and a flapper from Mortar Rock, I was not climbing. Although I wanted to, my tips wouldn't allow it. Instead, Charles Padilla was the lone climber.  
Sitting on the sidelines reminded me how climbing is such an amazing sport to spectate. Witnessing the effort, frustration, dissatisfaction, and success with each and every attempt is fascinating. It allows you to find common ground with others while understanding what the individual is experiencing while climbing. Whether you're a climber or you've never climbed a day in your life. Stay tuned next week Monday for an update on Bishop this coming weekend!

Charles Padilla making quick work of Bate's Eliminate, v10

Olmec Apparel

Giddy Organics

Gnarly Nutrition

Photos courtesy of:

Jacob Padilla

Instagram - Jacob Padilla (_jpadilla)

Email - padillajkub@gmail.com

Please note that I am not a writer, photographer, or professional climber.  I’m the average climber sharing their photos and thoughts. All feedback, questions, and comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.

-Jacob Padilla

A weekend In The Buttermilks

Yet another Bishop trip has come to an end. It never seems to get old. Every trip is unique and I always leave with new experiences and memories. After receiving news of being added to the Giddy Organics Giddy-Squad and a clothing sponsorship with Olmec Apparel, I was consumed by capturing aesthetically pleasing photos instead of producing high numbers throughout the trip. Just as quick as my feet hit the buttermilk gravel, I forgot about photos and wanted to produce. Although I’ve spent countless weekends climbing in Bishop, I’ve never been to Dales Camp. Since the temperatures have drastically risen in the last few weeks, the snow has since melted. I was eager to get on problems I had never tried.  My brother Charlie, friend Matt, Sofia, and I headed over to Dales in search for new challenges. Day one had begun.

Jacob Padilla  at the last bump move on Xavier's Roof, v11

 Charles Padilla cutting feet on Judge Not, v9

Matt Haig working on Zen Flute, v10

The first stop was Xavier's Roof, such an amazing line with great movement. After some rather straightforward roof climbing, passing the lip is done with great difficulty and flexibility. A must try if you find yourself in Dales Camp. Before heading back to town for food, we headed over to Zen Flute, Sharma Flake, Judge Not, and Solitaire. Each climb was unique and presented different challenges. Some challenges were overcome. Some were not. However, aside from the painful sand wielding windstorm, our first day went considerably well. Although we only managed to finish a few of the climbs, it was a great experience and I will definitely be visiting the area again. As day one came to an end, I was excited to see what else the weekend would have to offer. After a good nights rest, we enthusiastically marched up the hill ready to climb. After running a few laps on the Robinson Rubber Tester, we headed over the Cave Boulder to give a few burns on The Buttermilker. Such a stout, physical, and challenging climb. My anti-style, unfortunately it did not go down. Hopefully next trip.

Sofia Hoang toeing in on Robinson Rubber Tester

Chris Llewellyn working on Buttermilker Sit, V13

Al Ho on the send of Bubba Gump, v10

As day three commenced, I wanted to check out the Crabs Boulder since I had never climbed on it. Upon my arrival, I was excited to climb the steep overhang. However, I quickly realized why I had never heard of any good lines on the boulder, CHOSS. I attempted to warm up on Breakaway, v6. After chalking up, I began climbing with confidence. Unfortunately, when I locked off the top mini-jugs to gain the lip, they broke away and I fell flat on my back. The Bishop guidebook reads: "…try to leave something behind for others to climb on." Sorry "others", this climb may be a bit harder to top without the last holds. My apologies…. After being discouraged and disappointed with the quality of rock, we packed up and headed over to the Womb and Mandala Boulder to climb A Birthing Experience (if that's climbing) and Pope's Prow.

Jacob Padilla on Breakaway, just before the top jugs broke away. Best spotter ever!

Jacob Padilla on Pope's Pow, v6

Before our departure from Bishop, Charlie convinced me that we should put some last minute effort into The Mystery, v12. I was skeptical at first since we had never tried it. After arriving at the Grandma Peabody Boulder, I was growing increasingly excited to try the climb. After sussing out each individual move and watching a couple of videos, we began our initial attempts. Fortunately, we were both able to put the moves together and send the problem back to back in just a few attempts. Sending the problem alongside my twin brother was an amazing feeling indescribable by words. After watching him climb, I was extremely motivated to push myself to follow along in his footsteps. Not only did he set the bar high, he lit a fire beneath me and I felt like I could not let him down. Regardless of the grade, the best part of the experience was being able to share it with someone else. Often times as climbers, our sends are for ourselves. It reminded be how amazing climbing is when it can be shared with others, especially loved ones. If your loved ones don’t climb, introduce them to this amazing sport. If they do climb, enjoy your experiences together and continue creating memories that you can look back on. I’ll never forget the day in the Buttermilks my brother and I climbed together.

Charles Padilla on the send of The Mystery, v12

Giddy Organics

Olmec Apparel

Photos courtesy of:

Jacob Padilla

Instagram - Jacob Padilla

Email - padillajkub@gmail.com

Please note that I am not a writer, photographer, or professional climber.  I’m the average climber with an opinion, like you. All feedback, questions, and comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.

-Jacob Padilla